It’s that time of year again: mushroom season is starting. While most of the fascinating plants don’t raise their hats until the fall, some species, such as the chanterelle, are already at the starting line in summer. In these Berlin restaurants, the chanterelles are prepared especially well.
The chanterelle season lasts from June to October. Its striking yellow color not only makes this forest dweller almost unmistakable, but because oft hat has also earned it the German name “Eierschwamm”, meaning „egg sponge“. Thanks to its earthy, intense taste, chanterelles have become an indispensable part of the kitchen – whether in salads, soups, as a side dish with meat dishes or as the star of culinary creations.
Anna & Paul
At the recently opened Anna & Paul on Oranienburger Straße, chanterelles play a central role on the seasonal menu, and in every price category. If you’re on a budget, choose the gratinated chanterelles with potatoes, thyme and mountain cheese for 12 euros, or go a little higher with the tagliatelle with creamed chanterelles for 20 euros. The braised „Schäufele“ with potato and chive puree and – of course – chanterelles for 25 euros is a classic. It is important to the owners, whose names are not Anna and Paul but Mariana and Stefan Schaarschmidt, that guests can broaden their culinary horizon in their restaurant. And that they can.
Anna & Paul, Oranienburger Str. 39, 10117 Berlin, www.anna-paul.berlin
Le Faubourg
The name says it all: it’s going to be French. Haute cuisine, oh, là, là! Le Faubourg on Kudamm not only impresses with its stylish interior, but also with plenty of chanterelles on the dinner menu. How about a hearty mushroom soup with fried chanterelles, bread potato chips and fresh chives as a garnish (12 euros)? For the main course, you’ll be spoiled for choice between fried plaice fillet with beurre blanc, apricots, chanterelles and fregola sarda (25 euros) or homemade pasta with fried chanterelles, pecorino, bacon and chives (24 euros). Either way, an evening at Le Faubourg should be quite délicieux.
Le Faubourg, Augsburger Str. 41, 10789 Berlin, www.lefaubourg.berlin
Fischer & Lustig
Very close to the capital’s second most important center of power, the Red City Hall, the team at Fischer & Lustig usually serves you the most delicious fish dishes. In the case of the star ingredient chanterelle, however, the entire culinary spectrum is served. For starters, we recommend the chanterelle cream soup with beet foam for 8.50 euros or the garden salad with berries, chanterelles and raspberry dressing for 16 euros. If you’re more hungry, go for the Wiener schnitzel with creamed chanterelles and rosemary potatoes for 28 euros or – here it is at last! – the BBQ salmon with sesame seeds on a bed of potato and chanterelle goulash for 29 euros. The hearty chanterelle ragout with apple, oven vegetables and potatoes for 19 euros does not contain any animal protein.
Fischer & Lustig, Poststraße 26, 10178 Berlin, www.fischerundlustig.de
Jäger & Lustig
Wait a minute, are we seeing double? Not quite. Jäger & Lustig in Friedrichshain is the sister restaurant to the Fischer & Lustig and serves hearty, traditional cuisine – including our favorite chanterelle. As a snack between meals, try the scrambled egg sandwich with fresh chanterelles and venison ham for 9.50 euros or the creamed chanterelle soup with cress foam and pretzel bread for 9 euros. The meadow herb salad with roasted chanterelles, field berries and blackberry dressing for 16 euros is completely vegan, while the braised beef rib with creamed chanterelles and rosemary potatoes for 24 euros is much meatier. We particularly like the Berlin-style braised cucumber with onions, ham, tomatoes and early potatoes for 16 euros because it is very regional.
Jäger & Lustig, Grünberger Str. 1, 10243 Berlin, www.jaegerundlustig.de
